Cincinnati's Back: Casual Wok Now W.J. Jan's

A new star in Cincinnati -- Casual Wok is being renamed after its new chef, W.J. Jan, who was a gold medal winner at last year's Culinary Olympics. Jan was trained in dim sum in Hong Kong and we can only hope that Casual Wok will have his skills in the carts and on our plates fast!  An opening reception is supposed to be scheduled in December. Here's the dim sum menu currently posted on their web site.  I don't believe it's been updated since Jan's arrived.

Any reports?

Motown now a Dim Sum Destination

Just when you thought the only food you can get in Detroit is at a freeway exit or from a buffet at a casino (sorry, that's not fair), along toddles Shangri-La.


According to its review in about.com, Shangri-La bills itself as having “authentic Chinese cuisine” and has a wide variety of dishes, including duck, Hong Kong eggplant, lobster and crab. While it is also known for its Sushi and Congee, its main claim to fame is its Dim Sum or "Chinese Brunch." In fact, Shangri-La is one of the few restaurants in the Metro-Detroit area that offers it. 


It does serve up some imagination -- garlic chives pan cakes, parsley and scallop kao, and pan fried corn cake with shrimp paste are a few. Don't let the cake thing fool you -- there's a full range of other options as well.


And, if the slots, Tigers, Pistons or Lions aren't doing it for you, you can find Shangri-La in West Bloomfield.  Click here to go to a map and address.

If you get there, let us know what you think.  And, if Ted Nugent or Sparky Anderson are occupying that corner booth.

MOCA not MOMA

A new museum opened recently in NYC -- the Museum of Chinese in America  (MOCA). And, what did they serve -- an evening of Dumplings, Dim Sum and Delectables.  This is worth checking out, not just for the food served on opening night, but a visit next time you're in NYC or if you're living there now. The Hungry Roach did a nice review at http://tinyurl.com/yzb2n94   Enjoy!  

Chowing at Tony Cheng's

After a respite, the dim sum diner is back.  Hopefully, with a passion.

Okay, there may be more interesting places to have dim sum in DC.  Or, certainly some that are off the beaten path, not that the three-block Chinatown is on everyone's short list.

But we were very happy with our experience (our second) at Tony Cheng's, a two-story Mongolian on the bottom and Chinese on the top dim sum house.  What we particularly liked, other than the fact the variety was good, the food hot and service smart, was that for the first time we were offered noodle dishes from the carts -- which made us happy and, as you can see, were nicely done.

This may not have been our most adventerous trip -- my son and I waded through what seemed to be (appropriately) a monsoon to get there and went for the familiar favorites.  Only when we stuffed ourselves with about eight versions cook'n sell dumplings did we spy a few new carts traveling the large dining room and vowed we'd go back and pace ourselves next time. to get the cart and the experience that we're truly going to remember.

Never let it be said that if you order crab or talapia it's not fresh, as the husky fellows here indicate.  Sadly, we did not go there this trip and, should the spirit move us, look forward to doing so next visit. You can't miss it -- just look for the big Tony Cheng's sign. 

Dim Sum Plays Political Hot Feet

Okay, so many timid folks don't order chicken feet when enjoying dim sum.

Well, it turns out our American fed birds are in high demand because of their plump and juicy-ness. (Kind of like us Americans who feast on them.)

Trade agreements between the Chinese and the U.S. notwithstanding, perhaps at the next State Dinner at the White House there will be a new appetizer on the menu. So I'm wondering, what's the polite way to eat chicken feet when you're dressed in black tie?

Sending Him off with a Bang

Bangkok Joe's, in Georgetown (DC)'s riverfront district, has a nice selection of dumpling and noodle dishes. In fact, while it doesn't serve traditional dim sum, it's dumpling bar is nicely inventive.

Taking my son to college, we decided Bangkok Joe's would be a great place for dinner with a college friend and his family. So, we loaded up on dumplings, noodle soups, and rice bowls.

Take the dumpling dive -- Panang Chicken Buns, Pork 'n crab shu mai (top left); lobster 'n pine nut dumplings, pictured top right (with taragon, Asian fruit compote, balsamic soy sauce and chili oil) and winter squash potstickers (butternut, sweet potatoes, onions and egg with spicy-ginger soy dip) and shrimp and crab goyza (pickled giner, daikon, sweek sesame-soy dip) and steamed shring dumplings (with shrimp, chicken, shitaki mushromoms, carrot, and ginger lime cream) were some of the be-noodled treats.

We also sopped up nutty seafood noodles (wok-fried wonton noodled with sauteed shrimp, scallops, spinsih, onion, mushrooms, pine nuts and rost tomoatoes in a basic cream sauce) among other, more familiar dishes (Pad Thai, chicken with cashew nuts, peking duck spring rolls, and chicken with basil.

The atmosphere was bright, lively and fun -- a mix of residents, parents dropping students at school, and the Georgetown/DC professional crowd, enjoying a Friday night before clubbing or dropping from another week of pounding it out. We liked it all -- the more familiar soups, appetizers and rice bowls were universally loved.

I also loved the idea of the dumplings, even if we didn't savor the flavors. In fact, for as promising as they appeared on paper, and they looked in presentation (okay, the shrimp 'n crab gyoza at left looks like someone dropped a bottle of teriyaki on it), they lacked in flavor. They were fresh, served steaming hot and cooked perfectly, but lacked the snap you appreciate when dim sum is well spiced.

Would we go back? Certainly for the soups, noodles and rice bowls.

But, we'd suggest the dumpling bar be sent back to the kitchen for a makeover. The only other disappointment was that while the Obamas were not there having dinner, we did go see their house the next morning.

Sometimes, when you go to dinner with your family, the food is great, the conversation not so much. When my daughter and I visited Uncle Yip's in Evendale (just north of downtown Cincinnati), the conversation was great, the dim sum not so much. Left -- variety on dim sum on display, labeled for those of us who can't read Mandarin.

The restaurant itself is small and nondescript, hidden in a corner of a strip mall. We arrived about 11:30 on a Sunday, sat and ate immediately -- the restaurant had only about 10 diners at that point. Service throughout was great, friendly, fast and courteous, a real bright spot. And, by 12:15, the place was getting crowded, steam carts were rolling faster and the happy, Sunday dim sum dining crowd was more animated and tables were loaded with a great variety of dumplings and entrees ordered from the menu.

The variety was possibly Uncle Yip's best attribute. Three kinds of sui mai --

beef, pork and of course chicken -- salted shrimp, tripe, chicken feet and a host of other items that fit your fancy for something new and different. For example, the menu boasts: pan-fried turnip cake with Chinese sausage; stuffed chili peppers with shrimp and steamed shark fin dumpling. At least on the menu, there are a more diverse set of offerings than other dim sum choices in this area. Right, chicken sui mai).

Unfortunately, while the service and variety was great, and the restaurant packed with enthusiastic diners by the time we left, the food generally was not to temperature and the flavors were somehow left in the kitchen. They lacked the freshness and snap we have come to expect with great dim sum. In fact, the frozen pot stickers from Trader Joe's were more flavorful than those plated for us. Above, steamed shrimp dumpling.

Vietnamese spring rolls, while fresh from the fryer, lacked any appreciable filling that would have made us want to double back and ask for another order. Perhaps the biggest disappointment was the crab claws, also fresh from the fryer, hot and steamy. However, the claw as a day or more past its prime and the careful cooking couldn't remove the tell tale taste of seafood that had seen its better day. Right -- the offending crab claw.

So what's a dim sum lover (stranded in Cincinnati) to do? If you haven't before, vist Grand Oriental and Casual Wok. Then, visit Uncle Yip's. And, when you go, appreciate the service, the friendliness and the roar of the dining room (but go after noon). And, hopefully, the food will be a bit fresher. There's no question Uncle Yip's has its share of fans. It's too bad our one experience wasn't better.

If you've been to any of these three, post your perspective by clicking on the 'Comments' link below. Happy dumpling hunting.

One Billion Chinese Can't Be Wrong

There is a great article from the Brooklyn Paper. that says, 'one billion Chinese can't be wrong.' I agree.

This is wonderful, simple guide to enjoying dim sum -- with several recommended stops for 'dumplings plus' when you're in Brooklyn. Mentioned are dim sum houses like Pacificana, East Harbor Seafood Palace, King Star and World Tong.

Read on, pass on and enjoy.

Photos by Ben Muessig (left) and Mike Short (right).

Browsing Brooklyn

Ben Muessig of the Brooklyn Paper has saved us all a lot of legwork. His point is that, "Dim sum ain’t just dumplings." (See the photo of Ngau pak yip at right.)

He says that dishes like shumai and pork buns have become commonplace at Chinese eateries around the United States, but traditional Cantonese brunch spots around Brooklyn also boast a number of less-well-known treats.

Ben sampled some of what he considered the more unusual offerings at the borough’s finest parlors. Here’s four examples:

Woo Gok (taro croquettes)

This tiny treat might look like a deep-fried hairball, but it tastes like deep-fried mashed potatoes. The dish starts with a mushy mass of taro — a purplish root vegetable with a slightly sweet taste. Chefs drop that mash into bubbling deep fat, leaving the taro surrounded in a crunchy, greasy layer of fried goodness that almost looks furry. Bite through the crispy exterior and you’ll find a tiny pocket of savory meat nested in the middle of the taro, like a beefy Russian nesting doll.

Fèngzhu(chicken feet)

If you’re not a dim sum expert, eating a chicken foot isn’t easy — but the reward makes it worthwhile. Picking up the slippery four-toed appendage with chopsticks is struggle in itself, and actually nibbling between each digit is a long and arduous process. But each bit of lumpy flesh that falls free of the bone offers a delectable combination of chicken skin, cartilage and marrow! Start with the toes and work your way to the ball of the foot, spitting out any bones that are too hard to chew. Once you reach the ball — which takes some time, considering that each joint requires harder chomping than the previous knuckle — you’ll find a fatty lump of pure joy. Luckily for you first timers, many Brooklyn dim sum parlors remove the talons so you won’t have to worry about biting chicken toenails.

Lau Sah Bao (egg custard bun)

This fluffy bun looks so light it might float away, but it’s actually one of the heaviest dishes you’ll find on the dim sum cart. This dessert bun boasts a slightly solid, slightly runny — and cloyingly sweet — egg custard made from yolks. The filling in this bread-coated treat actually contains so much sugar that it takes on a grainy, sandy texture — a dessert desert, if you will.

Ngau pak yip (steamed beef tripe)

This chewy dish of thinly sliced cow stomach lining is one of the tastiest items. Each rubbery morsel gives off a rich flavor that’s meaty, but not gamey. It takes a while to gnaw through a single piece of these pungent offal, but each bite rewards the diner with a juicy burst of beefy perfection.

Oma-Gosh: Dim Sum in Warren Land

Signs that dim sum is creeping in the from coasts are apparent every day. The latest is at Golden Mountain in Omaha, Nebraska. Forget the area is better known for Omaha Steaks, big money as in Warren Buffet or for cornhusking, when you're in Omaha closing your next deal, climb the Mountain. There are a few concessions -- it's not served on a cart, the menu is limited and it's not particularly inventive.

But, in the land of rib-eyes, how choosy can you be. Have you been there?

Dazzling Dumpling Infusion

It had been five years since I had the chance to return to Yank Sing, the San Francisco financial district dim sum palace that completely, forever, sealed my passion for the cuisine. It was and is something really, really good.

And, it was made better when my friend and former colleague Dave Chapman joined me for lunch at the Rincon Center location. Okay, maybe the company was as good as the food, but that's really not a fair comparison.

Every dish, including snap peas stir fried and served in a sweet brown sause, hit the mark. And, in about 30 minutes, we commited to a table littered with dishes of crab claws, shrimp dumplings, siu mai, shimp wrapped in skins, scallops fresh from the Bay and about 40 other varieties to which we saw sail past in steam carts.

Maybe we got there at the right time (about 11:30 a.m.) or maybe we were in the right spot, but there were an amazing number of wait staff and a graduate course in dumplings -- we were never short of choices, chances and calories.

Visit the web site and you'll see. Better yet, grab your chopsticks and get yourself over there now. If you've been there, what's your favorite?

LA Means Lots A Dim Sum

In honor of a stint in Los Angeles for an extended work visit, here's a post from Victor Tang regarding what considers the best dim sum in the Southland -- he calls his work Tangtastic. Decide for yourself. He gives you a step-by-step instruction on how to enjoy dim sum -- and recommends Ocean Star Seafood Restaurant, 145 N Atlantic Blvd, Monterey Park -- (626) 308-2128.

Or maybe just his myspace page is worth seeing.

Yanking My Chain

Yank Sing, here I come. A two-day visit to San Francisco is in the offing -- and a chance to cruise by my favorite dim sum palace. Yesterday, I read a great line -- "What wiggles your wonton?" Yes, it's Yank Sing. Photos to come.

Dim Sum is for Lovers

Yes -- we're talking again about Dim Sum Funeral, the movie that just opened in the U.S. in a limited release in Los Angles. If we're lucky, it will go almost straight to the Internet -- a first in bypassing the DVD, airline and crappy hotel movie markets. Good to hear from one of the reviewers, Amy Stoody, who posted to this site (see the Dim Sum Diner Poster below. )Also interesting that the promo shot involved pool action -- one would have hoped the steamy scenes were involved steam carts and a creative use of coconut shrimp balls, but that would have been too obvious. Who's seen it?

Rise of the Phoenix

Someone likes what's happening on the Phoenix dim sum scene. Visit the Great Wall via a review by Phoenix New Times food critic Michele Laudig. She writes:

"Dumpings, rice congee and chicken feet; there's nothing not to love about dim sum. Ladies pushing the dim sum carts, stacked with metal steaming containers and rows of plates, pass by frequently, invariably bringing something new and irresistible that they didn't have the last go-round. On my visits to Great Wall, just when I thought I'd settled on a gluttonous number of dishes, I'd succumb to something too pretty to pass up, like flaky, golden pastries packed with mild curried beef, or a platter laden with roast duck, its shiny, crispy skin a deep shade of pomegranate."

It's Sunday morning. I'm hungry.

Get Sum Dim Sum

Who would have thought that Austin, Texas would introduce a great concept -- 24 hour dim sum, seven days a week. Are there franchises available?

Get Sum Dim Sum has been receiving great press after it's opening. The 45th & Lamar restaurant is the first of its kind in Austin, serving dim sum anytime, seven days a week. This site is still under construction, but I love its logo. Check it out.

England, Again?

Do we really have to go England for dim sum? Based on the reviews posted online, it would seem so. Check out Orchids and the dumplings of delight being served in Harrowgate.

Dim Sum Funeral

This is not about food -- it's about life. Well, maybe it's about both. A new movie, Dim Sum Funeral, is getting interesting reviews. Perhaps this is another sleeper along the lines of Eat, Pray Love, or Chocolat meets Six Feet Under. Here's a sample of four reviews...

Screen Daily: "The cast looks very uncomfortable at all the wrong moments." - Fionnuala Halligan

Asia Pacific Arts: "There's a twist towards the end, but by then you'll wish the movie was over." - William Hong

Frustrated blogger: "fkllllllllllllllllllllljjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjkkkkk" - M.D. Caigoy

Quote used on Dim Sum Funeral promotional fliers: "This could be the next SLUMDOG MILLIONAIRE." - Amy Stoody, KNX 1070 News Radio, Los Angeles

Okay, maybe we're still waiting for the first great dim sum movie moment. Have you seen a great movie where food and life are a recipe for a wonderful film? Click on the "comment" link below to post your thoughts and read those posted by others, including reviewer Amy Stoody.

Hungry is the Cow

The Hungry Cow is a Singapore based blog about great food -- and those who eat it. Check out the snap shot of why dim sum has sum-thing for everyone.

Dallas Does Dim Sum

The exterior isn't anything to write home about(what dim sum restaurant is?), but Dallas Texans love Kirwin Court  -- at least according to the reviews.  See for yourself.

When in Waldo...

This has little to do with dim sum, but is a special, acquired taste nevertheless. If you're ever in Ohio and are looking for original, downhome pub food -- specifically the bologna kind, check out the G&R Tavern.

Dim Sum Down Home

When you just can't find great dim sum out, have no time to prepare it from scratch, you still can satisfy your "fix". Trader Joe's offers a great selection of frozen dim sum selections -- steamed in minutes and served. Last night friends prepared chicken siu mai and served it with sauteed onions, cabbage and apples. Mark it down -- delicious! Share your quick solutions to a dim sum fix.

Digital Dim Sum

I really appreciate great photography.  And, when you combine it with shots of dim sum that make you hungry even if you've just finished a too-large meal, you really have to love it. That's another thing dim sum diner is all about. Flickr has quite a bank of great images to browse, including this one from Jason Perlow taken at Dim Sum Dynasty in New Jersey.  Enjoy.

Dumpling Lust and Sacramento Dim Sum Sluts

It's not my line -- but if you love dim sum, you'll appreciate the true beauty of those words in their most provocative connotation.  Here's a review from the Sacramento Bee that captures the feeling exactly.    

Ba Shan: Dim Sum with a Twist

Here's a really neat new idea -- kind of like dim sum on steroids. Check it out if you're in London -- Ba Shan. The reviewer says, "This new restaurant offers Chinese snacks, “xiao chi,” which you might equate with Cantonese dim sum but the cooking and spicing are different, with bigger flavors. What you lose in subtlety, you gain in punch, which isn’t to say the dishes lack finesse. For a menu that’s dominated by dumplings and noodles, Ba Shan’s food isn’t short on refinement.: Does anyone know a U.S. restaurant serving xaio chi? Find out more at: http://tinyurl.com/cxvozo

Boulder Rolls New Dim Sum Restaurants

Check out Heaven Star Seafood Restaurant http://tinyurl.com/c94saz next time you're in the Boulder area. Here's a great review of the restaurant one of two new restaurants serving dim sum: Boulder's Happy Noodle House and Broomfield's Heaven Star Seafood Restaurant. The latter, which is the subject of this review, focuses on dim sum, and the restaurant's management has lots of experience in this area. The same proprietors also own Denver's well-known Super Star Asian http://tinyurl.com/cye3ul dim sum restaurant.

Casual Wok Rocked

What a surprise. My family visited Casual Wok & Grille, Montgomery (suburban Cincinnati) last Sunday and it was a delightful surprise -- with more than 40 varieties of dim sum (asparagus shrimp dumplings to baby octopus with curry), carted quickly, served fresh and with friendly, helpful staff. More to come -- including photos. Our meal for four was about $40 for all we wanted -- we were happy with the quality and value. Find out more by calling 513 891 3100. Located at 10000 Montgomery Road, dim sum is served Saturdays and Sundays from 10-3. Their web site is under construction.

Ultimate Dim Sum Diner Photo

Here it is. This photo was taken by Monaz. Check out her other work at http://www.flickr.com/photos/monaz

Some Cincinnati Sum

Finally, a new dim sum opportunity in Cincinnati. Details and photos tomorrow! (Hint -- the name is Casual Wok & Grille in Montgomery.) Wish us luck. Full report next week.

http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Casual.Wok.And.Grille.513-891-3100

Meet the Queen

Headed to London soon? If so, this review by Helen Yuet Ling Pang in her World Foodie Guide blog. She's now firmly back on the dim sum trail and updated last year’s post Where To Eat Dim Sum In London. She chose Golden Palace in Harrow as her first restaurant to visit. http://www.worldfoodieguide.com/

Reality Does Dim Sum

Finally, a Food Network reality segment set in a Chinese restaurant featuring dim sum. And, they're looking for extras. Check it out.

San Francisco Redux

Why can't we leave the Bay Area? A quick guide to the best dim sum houses in God's corner of the world. http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/bestof/winners/2008/dim_sum Number one (again) is Yank Sing. It's no wonder -- for the best images and gallery of treats for "traditional and modern deem sum" go to www.yanksing.com.

Rocky Mountain (dim sum) High

Check out Claire Walter's posting and recommendation for dim sum in metro Denver. She calls it "a gut-busting, communal congengial dim sum...." And that's what it's all about. http://culinary-colorado.blogspot.com/

We're Cookin' and Sellin'

Okay, let's start with the basics. Good pork dumplings are great off any cart on the street or in the dim sum house. Here's an easy recipe you can use to try these at home. How about for Sunday brunch? http://tinyurl.com/dmwwup

Obama Sum

We now have unofficial confirmation that the Obamas will soon be inviting a dim sum chef to take up residence in the White House.

HONOLULU — Here are some of the places President Obama eats when he's in Hawaii.

Indigo: 1121 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu

Maya Soetoro-Ng, Obama's sister, who lives in Honolulu, has said Indigo is one of her brother's favourite spots. Indigo is a hotspot in Chinatown, popular with everyone from locals like Kelsey Grammer to Honolulu's political and business power players. This "island fusion" eatery features a fresh and eclectic menu by chef Glenn Chu that matches the urban, Eurasian decor.

Greg Johnson, Indigo's vice president of operations, said when the Obamas visited in August, they started with the dim sum plate (US$14), which includes goat cheese won tons, lumpia-wrapped shrimp (similar to eggrolls) and duck mu shu rolls.

It's All Organic

Check out the Imperial Tea Court in San Francisco, which is serving organic dim sum. http://camelliasinensisblog.blogspot.com/2009/03/dont-miss-our-handmade-organic-dim-sum.html

They have two locations, one in the Ferry Building on Embarcadero, overlooking the Bay, the other in Berkeley. As written on their blog -- Roy is working on a list of suggested teas for each dish. For example, he recommends Monkey-Picked Tie Guan Yin with our Teahouse Spicy Noodles, Imperial Jasmine Pearls with the Dim Sum Sampler, and Imperial Pu Er with our famous Beijing-style beef noodles. Our teahouses aren't just for tea! Stop by soon and try the dim sum for yourself.

Dim Sum Ride Around

Now this is living. Check out what some folks in LA did with a dim sum bike around. I now know how I'll spend a free day in LA. http://eatingla.blogspot.com/2009/03/dim-sum-ride-goes-bigtime.html

New York, New York

I'll be traveling to NYC and Washington in the next several weeks -- and am looking for suggestions on which dim sum restaurants you've found are the best.

Hello Dim Sum Lovers

It will be the next big thing -- and why not. Dim Sum is the ultimate international food.

In the meantime, I'm looking through Ellen Leong Blonder's book Dim Sum, The Art of the Chinese Tea Lunch. It's a wonderful guide to Dim Sum from great recipes to planning a menu and the equipment and supplies you'll need. Find it at http://www.amazon.com/Dim-Sum-Art-Chinese-Lunch/dp/0609608878/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1237164874&sr=1-2